Store your seed in a cool, dry place away from rodents. Avoid using metal trash cans or storing seed in hot pole barns, as heat can quickly destroy seed viability.

“Native” plants are typically defined by a time period. In the United States, this generally means plants that existed here before the late 1700s—after Native American settlement but before European settlement. During this time, there was some human influence on the environment, but little to no introduction of plant species from other continents.

Germination is the process in which a seed begins to grow into a plant. It’s sometimes referred to as sprouting—when the seed starts to develop roots and leaves, and you begin to see green emerging in your planting.

An ecotype is a distinct form or race of a plant or animal species that occupies a particular habitat. Ecotype seed refers to seed collected from parent stock that has evolved and adapted over time to your specific region. It is suited to your local soils, geology, temperature, rainfall, elevation, insects, diseases, pests, and other environmental factors unique to your area.

It varies by species, but as a general rule of thumb, you can expect a 3–5% loss in germination each year. The more moisture and heat the seed is exposed to, the faster that rate will drop. Just remember—seed won’t grow if it’s not planted, so be sure to adjust your planting rates based on the estimated viability of your stored seed.

With native species, it can take 60 to 120 days for seeds to germinate—so patience is key. As the old saying goes: “Natives sleep the first year, creep the second year, and leap the third year.” In contrast, non-native species typically begin to emerge within 14 to 21 days.

“PLS” stands for Pure Live Seed—the portion of a seed lot guaranteed to be viable. The PLS is determined by a government-certified testing lab and represents only the live, viable seeds, excluding any empty seeds, dead seeds, leaves, stems, dirt, weed seeds, or other contaminants.

This is our minimum line item cost for any species. It reflects the basic cost of pulling an item from the shelf, weighing it, and preparing it for delivery. Purchasing a smaller quantity at this price—rather than a larger amount—may actually save you on shipping costs, depending on your needs.

Standard Mixes may be canceled within 48 hours of the scheduled shipping date. Due to the nature of their production, Custom Mixes cannot be canceled once the order has been mixed. Returns of Standard Mixes and Individual Species must be made within two weeks of delivery and in the original, unopened packaging. These returns are subject to a 20% restocking fee plus freight charges. Custom Mixes are not eligible for return.

Seed is guaranteed to match the description on the seed tag. Liability is limited to refund or replacement. All orders are subject to Acts of God and potential crop failures.

We accept Visa, MasterCard, and American Express. You may also pay by check, money order, or PayPal at the time of order. We offer open account billing with approved credit—please call to request a credit application. Open accounts may also be available for Farm Bill Program customers; contact us for more information.

Yes, feel free to email sales@roundstoneseed.com or call our office at 270-531-3034 and we can get an order placed for you.

The inventory on our website reflects only a portion of our total stock and is designed to handle daily ordering demands. For pricing and availability of any species not listed online, please call or email us directly.

Availability changes throughout the year and pricing may change without notice due to growing and harvest conditions. Please contact us for current prices and availability. Volume discounts are available.

Predesigned mixes typically ship within 2–3 business days. Custom mixes may require 5–10 business days to process. Please note that during peak season, order processing times may be delayed due to high demand.

We use Fedex, UPS, and USPS depending on the location and size of the order. For large quantity orders we can use an LTL service which brings a pallet loaded on a semi-truck.

This is not recommended in most cases, especially for large areas. Tilling or disking exposes new weed seeds, which can outcompete your native planting. It should also be avoided in highly erodible areas. However, if tilling has already occurred, it’s best to allow time for additional weed control before planting.

This depends on the species, your project goals, and how the seed is being installed. Please refer to the product description for specific planting details and recommended rates for individual species and mixes.

Once your weeds are under control and you're ready to plant, perform a simple "footprint test." Step onto the planting area—if your footprint sinks more than 1/4 inch, the soil is too loose and needs to be firmed up before broadcasting. If you don’t leave a footprint at all, the site is too firm. In that case, lightly rough up the surface so that your footprint leaves an impression about 1/8 to 1/4 inch deep. Do not disk the site immediately before planting, as this can bury the seed too deeply and lead to poor germination.

For most native species, the ideal planting depth is 1/8 to 1/4 inch. If seed is planted deeper than 1/4 inch, many species will not germinate. It’s better for native seed to be on top of the ground than planted too deep. Some exceptions apply—for example, eastern gamagrass requires deeper planting. A good rule of thumb is to plant seed at a depth no more than twice the width of the seed.

The most crucial step in site preparation is weed control—and it should determine the timing of your planting. For small-scale projects, organic methods may be an option, but most plantings will require multiple herbicide applications. Once weed control is complete, your seeding method should ensure good seed-to-soil contact. See our Six Basic Elements for Native Grass Establishment for more information.

Watering is not required for establishing native species and can sometimes cause problems, such as increased weed competition or erosion from irrigation. If you choose to water, use a light and consistent schedule that avoids ponding or water runoff. In contrast, non-native plantings do benefit from regular watering until they are established.

This will depend greatly on the species you’re planting, the level of weed competition, and the size of the area. Two of the most common planting windows are during the growing season and the dormant season. Growing season planting typically occurs in spring through late spring, while dormant season planting takes place in the fall and winter.

There are several ways to sow seed, and the best method depends on your project size, goals, and the equipment you have available. Three common methods are broadcast seeding, drill seeding, and hydroseeding: Broadcast seeding is done by hand or with a broadcaster (often called a “seed slinger”) and is ideal for small-scale projects. Drill seeding is well-suited for larger acreage, offering more precise placement and depth. Hydroseeding is typically used on construction sites or areas with a high risk of erosion, as it helps stabilize the soil while distributing seed evenly.

We do not recommend using fertilizer when establishing native plants. Weeds will absorb the nutrients first and quickly outcompete your native vegetation. Ideally, you should choose plants that are well-suited to the soil chemistry and conditions of your site. For non-native plantings, lime and fertilizer should be applied based on recommendations from a soil test.

Annual maintenance should include spot treatment of woody plants and invasive species. Depending on your project goals, maintenance may also involve mowing annually or every other year (biennially). For more detailed guidance, please refer to our maintenance guide.

Burning is the preferred method for managing most native plantings, as it removes thatch and encourages the growth of fire-adapted prairie species. While mowing does remove standing dead vegetation, it can lead to a buildup of thatch over time, which may reduce plant diversity. For guidance on conducting a safe prescribed burn, including training and regulations, contact your state’s Prescribed Fire Council.

To keep your native planting healthy and functioning as intended, management activities are typically needed every 3–5 years. These may include grazing, haying, prescribed fire, disking, and/or selective herbicide applications. Following these activities, you may also choose to inter-seed additional seed back into the plot to enhance diversity or fill in gaps. Please see our management guide for more information.

This depends on your goals of the burn and the species you are burning but a general rule of thumb is every 2-3 years. Grass only areas can be burned more often and poor soil or woody habitat may need to burn less frequently.

During the establishment year, mowing may need to occur more frequently to reduce shade and competition from weeds. Once the planting is established, mowing can be done annually or every other year, depending on site conditions. Ideally, mowing should take place after native seed has matured—generally from late fall to late winter. Be sure to consider any wildlife concerns when determining the timing and frequency of mowing. For native plantings, mow to a height of approximately 6 to 8 inches.